Rio Vermelho: what to do in Salvador's most bohemian neighborhood

Rio Vermelho It is, without a doubt, one of the most beloved leisure options for Salvador residents and tourists alike. There is no research to indicate this, but anyone who lives in Salvador knows it. Whether it's the way the Santana and Mariquita squares look or the crowds generated by Chupito.

Rio Vermelho has so many great options that it won't be possible to cover all the well-known corners of the neighborhood, such as... EcoSquare, which brings together some shops, bars and restaurants on Rua Conselheiro Pedro Luiz. Or the Jorge Amado's House, but it already has exclusive post about the place.

Therefore, the focus will be on what to do in Rio Vermelho, especially along the waterfront. So, I recommend you read to the end to learn even more about one of Salvador's most well-known neighborhoods.

Where to eat in Rio Vermelho

I'll start this sort of guide with gastronomy. After all, there's always that question about the best bars and restaurants for lunch and dinner. So, I'm going to list some places I've been to and loved.

The Tapestry

Specializing in Spanish cuisine, The Tapestry It's located at Rua da Paciência, 251. It's right in front of the sports court; you can't miss it. It's been years since I went there, but I remember that... paella It's out of this world. Furthermore, I've had the opportunity to eat it at several editions of the City Fair. So, if you like these dishes, it's definitely worth it.

Opening hours

Tuesday to Friday, from 4 PM to 12 AM
Saturday: 12 PM to 12 AM
Sunday: 12pm to 4pm
To book:
71 3334-6871 | 71 98716-1077

Pizza

A Pizza It brings the concept of individual pizza, which isn't very common in Salvador. In other words, you can't share yours with someone else. Despite this, it's incredible. So much so that... this post on the blog's Instagram It had great engagement and leaves anyone's mouth watering. It operates every day from 5 PM to 11:30 PM.

Following this line of thought, we have the Così, practically next door. See the post what I did about her.

Pasta at Home

The Italian restaurant on Rua Professor Almerinda Dutra is very beautiful and a good option for pasta lovers. It's open for lunch every day and for dinner from Tuesday to Sunday.

El Pancho

In front of Pasta em Casa, there is the El Pancho Focused on Mexican cuisine. I've never been, but this facade makes it tempting. Who knows, maybe there will be an Instagram post or something. YouTube channel. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Friday from 5 PM to 12:30 AM, and Saturday and Sunday from 12 PM to 12:30 AM.

França's Bar

One of the most well-known places in Rio Vermelho. When I went, I ate an incredible risotto. If it's sunny, it's really worth sitting outdoors. It's open daily from noon onwards.

Caramuru Village

The current complex, which replaced the Fish Market, brings together several restaurants and well-known brands such as Cubana. Most operate later in the afternoon.

Vila 14 Gallery

Located very close to Vila Caramuru, it brings together several shopkeepers, among them, the From Overseas, from a Portuguese family that sells incredible pastel de Belém. Watch the video. quick video To learn more about the restaurant.

Monster Açaí

For those who enjoy it, the bar offers various flavors and creams at a price I found fair. At the time, this cup cost around R$ 17. It has probably increased since then, as it's been a while since I visited. It's located on Rua João Gomes, near Largo de Santana. Therefore, close to the bohemian scene of Salvador.

What to do in Rio Vermelho at night

In addition to the bars and restaurants I mentioned, there are two places considered the bohemian hotspots in the neighborhood: Largo de Santana and Largo da Mariquita.

Although the photo was taken during the day and doesn't show much activity, don't be fooled. After all, Largo da Mariquita is already established as a meeting point for Salvador's nightlife. This is where you'll find Cira's acarajé stand, one of the most famous vendors of this delicacy in the city.

In Largo de Santana, you'll find the stall that used to belong to Dinha, another acarajé vendor who was very famous when she was alive, and today her daughters manage the stall. The last time I went there, the acarajé was priced between R$ 11 and R$ 13. In addition, there are several bars and restaurants in the square that leave many tables and chairs outdoors.

Interesting facts about the Rio Vermelho (Red River).

The sculpture Odoyá, The monument, which makes Largo de Santana even more beautiful, was created by the artist Ray Vianna and inaugurated on February 2, 2008. Yes, during the Yemanjá festival, one of the most popular festivals in Salvador.

Still on the subject of Yemanjá, did you know that the festival had religious syncretism in the past?

Parish of Saint Anne

When this church was the seat of the Parish of Sant'Anna, in 1924, a group of fishermen offered Yemanjá their first gift in an attempt to overcome a difficult period of fish scarcity. Therefore, this gift was very simple: a bottle of scented water and a doll, protected by a cardboard box.

A mass was held at the parish of Our Lady of Sant'Ana to open the festivities. Furthermore, she is the patron saint of the fishermen in the neighborhood. On the morning of February 2nd, very early, the fishermen would go to mass at the church and then head out to sea. Yemanjá.
When the fishermen put the priestess in charge of preparing the offering for the festival, the parish priest broke with the group, and there was never again a mass before the festival. Yemanjá.

In the 1960s, there was a plan to demolish the church when ACM's grandfather was mayor. But Jorge Amado, Carybé, and other artists prevented it, but since then the church has not been under the responsibility of any organization and it is never open. That's why few people know its history.
The headquarters of the Sant'Ana do Rio Vermelho parish were in this church shown in the photo until 1967, when it was moved to the side of the fishing colony, a part of which can be seen on the right side of the photo.
After the break with the parish priest, the festival of Yemanjá began to be produced at Casa do Peso, where fishermen arrange baskets that sink into the sea, signaling that Yemanjá has accepted the offering.

Where to watch the sunset in Rio Vermelho

In addition to housing several restaurants, Vila Caramuru's parking lot offers an incredible view of the Rio Vermelho coastline. Furthermore, you can see the Barra Lighthouse at the far end. The photo below is a teaser to give you an idea of what the sunset looks like from there.

Is Rio Vermelho dangerous?

I've discovered that this is a frequently searched question. Therefore, I'll use this text to talk a little about it.

Apparently, many residents and even people from other states still have a perception of the city from the past. Over the years, it has undergone revitalization in several areas, especially tourist attractions. Therefore, Rio Vermelho is in this group.

I believe this stems from the daily news broadcasts. After all, there are reports of violent acts happening in the city every day. Therefore, I think many people forget that they don't witness these acts personally in their daily lives.

Of course I know that we are subject to robberies in any city in the world. I, personally, try to move around Salvador freely, but always keeping an eye on my surroundings.

I recorded the video below about Rio Vermelho and I think it answers the question of whether the neighborhood is dangerous. In other words, I filmed the whole time with my cell phone. In addition, I show a police car in Largo da Mariquita, one of the busiest spots in the neighborhood, in one part of the video.

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